Day 9: Radium to Banff

Unlike yesterdays record, today there will be lots of pictures as today’s ride was so spectacular that it would have been criminal to miss it.

The day started out with breakfast at the the local Husky’s, I don’t think I’ve ever eaten breakfast – or indeed any meal (!) – at a gas station before.  I must say by this point I’d begun to wish for the full English breakfast.  Those who have partaken in such a thing will know that it is distinctly different from the Canadian cooked breakfast, in fact I don’t think I’ve even seen ‘proper’ bacon.  Anyway, a slight digression, brought on by the memory of the weakest looking coffee I think I have ever seen. 

Long horned sheep crossing the main road in Radium first thing in the morning:

Breakfast was very early and it was cold in Radium.  We set off promptly conscious that there was a steep climb first thing this morning, very much like our day out of Osoyoos, it started immediately.  There was some discussion in the group of a race to the top to claim a King of the Hills jersey, a la the Tour de France.  As was the typical pattern I managed to start off behind a number of people and slot in somewhere behind the slightly faster guys.  Again Simon breezed past me on the uphill!  My trepidation about this climb seemed misplaced as it took only 54 mins or so and unlike some of the other climbs the weather was perfect and the scenery ideal.

This particular climb was made all the worthwhile by the incredible views to be had at the top as we entered the Kootenay National Park, below is the view down the tree lined valley we had ahead of us.

Jen, Simon and Hilda at the top of the climb out of Radium:

As was so commonly the them a long climb was swiftly followed by a rapid descent into the valley and then a welcome long stretch of relatively flat riding.  These parts now that we were all 9 days in were becoming, for me, some of the most enjoyable as they were completed at some speed.  I still wasn’t as confident as I might be and constantly feared being unable to keep up with Simon and Jen in particular.  So when they stopped for a toilet break before lunch I went on at a marginally reduced pace fully expecting to be overhauled any minute.  I learnt I should have some more confidence in my ability to keep up on the flat, at least – hills are still a given that I am much slower, when I reached lunch without them having caught up with me.  This prompted Jen to say I shouldn’t complain about riding alone when I left them all and couldn’t be caught up for 20 km.  Fair point!  In my defence, it was really a complement that I left them!!

 Lunch was in the middle of a valley that had been ravaged by a massive forest fire a few years before.  The trees were stripped of any greenery for much of it.  I had assumed that this had been due to the terrible ravages of the pine beetle – busy destroying the magnificent trees in BC.  This time they couldn’t be blamed.  One can only imagine, though, the hell that the area must have been in that time, with fires raging right up the sides of the mountains.  Our lunch stop contained photographic record of this and it was quite something.

Following lunch we scaled what was to be our final major climb of the ride.  This one was to the top of the continental divide.  I have to admit complete ignorance of this until I arrived at it, it is the point in Canada either side of which water flow to the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans.  It is a reflection of the sprawling flatness of much of eastern Canada that this point is so far west in the country.  The ride up to it had been very enjoyable and we were also treated to the view of a glacier further up in a mountain. 

It was also on this ascent that after nearly nine days of cycling that we crossed the border into Alberta.  I was highly entertained to note the difference between the signs marking entry to the different provinces.  Alberta had a rather dull looking sign welcoming people to rose country.  BC possesses no such modesty (and frankly why should it looking at some of the scenery), adorned with a great big sunshine and welcoming people to the most beautiful place on earth.  Superb!

Me, Jen and Tom at the top of the Continental divide (with apologies for my poor matching of cycling outfits, the leg warmers are to keep the mosquitos away and the shorts were the only comfortable pair I had and unfortunately didn’t match the top which was itself just an unfortunate choice!):

Again an ascent means a descent.  I followed Jen down the road that would finally link us back up with the Trans-Canada highway that we had left behind on day 2.  Here I hit my highest speed to date of over 40 miles an hour.  Still this was slow compared to both Zach and David who told me that they had reached even higher speeds.  I was also unable to keep up with Jen on the downhill, as I am (much) heavier, there must be a technique thing there I need to work on.

David and Zach’s speed did come with a slight consequence.   On descent I was mindful to follow the advice and not in fact join the Trans-Canada but rather go on highway 1A running parallel.  Such was Zach’s speed that he forgot this advice and he overshot the turn taking David with him, so they both missed highway 1A.  This was a great shame as it was gorgeous and freshly paved this year.  Tree lined on both sides it was a great finish to the day.

Simon heading down highway 1A into Banff.

Entry into Banff did eventually require getting back on highway 1, but there was one last hazard for the day which was the presence of cattle grids on the entry to Banff – the first of which I went straight over.  A very unwise choice!  These wide grids could send a cyclist flying and are best negotiated on foot alone.  Banff itself was stunning in the afternoon sun and our ride into the hotel marred only by the construction that someone had very wisely decided to do in the middle of the town in the middle of tourist season.

Upon arrival I was able to take a picture of Pierre, my mascot from Alex, who I had carried from Vancouver, sat against the Cascade mountain in Banff.

After dinner that evening many of us went out to celebrate Canada day in Banff.  This was a great evening and I think many people felt very much like the ride was ending very soon, certainly I think that many of us drank a bit like that.  The day was finished off by a sleep in the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in, in our residence at the Inns of Banff.

Celebrating Canada day: